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Gardening 101: My 2008 New Year’s resolution for the garden

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Gardening 101: My 2008 New Year’s resolution for the garden
By: Kathy Robinson

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Posted by admin Tue Nov 30, 1999 00:00:00 PST
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As I was thinking about resolutions and the coming year it dawned on me: how about one thing I could do better in my yard? How about something that could save me time, work and money? That would be good! So this year I’m going to try using pre-emergents — and doing so properly. What a novel idea!

First of all, pre-emergent is seed control. It will stop most seeds from germinating. In other words, by applying them correctly you can nearly eliminate weeds in your yard. Remember though, procrastination is your worst enemy when using pre-emergents. If you wait until you see weeds, you’re waiting too long. Apply pre-emergents on a set schedule! Here are some of the ins and outs of successfully using seed controls.

You can use pre emergents throughout your yard. Use them on the lawn, in the flower beds and even on unplanted areas — anyplace where you don’t want to see weeds! By using seed control you can save money — money that you had been spending on weed killers. It is much more economical to treat before the weeds come up.

On your lawn you will need to apply seed control every three months. (Yes, that’s four times a year.) Use them early, before you see each season’s weeds. A good schedule might be on March 1, June 1, Sept.1 (if you’re over-seeding wait on the September application until after your winter grass has fully germinated) and Dec. 1.

In flower beds I like to go by a two-month schedule. The ground is worked more often in flower beds and is more exposed so seeds can settle and sprout easily. The same goes for unplanted areas. Even if they are covered with gravel or mulch, moisture is prevalent and weeds will pop up from seed. These areas just seem to be more vulnerable to seed germination.

Mark your calendar as these schedules can get confusing. Remember though, it’s a lot quicker to go out with a “whirlybird” and spread some granules than it is to pull and chop weeds once they’re up. You will save time and work.

Now that you’re considering using a pre-emergent, which one is best? Well, mix them up, don’t always use the same product. Here are some tips on what to use when:

• In open areas, gravel for instance, I love Casaron. It is a product that has been used for years under vinyl pools. It is especially effective on nut grass when used in stronger concentrations. It can also be used in flower beds, but the recommended rate will be less.

• In flower beds, Amaze is another good pre-emergent and not as pricey as Casaron.

• For lawns, Prohibate is a good one that also has a fertilizer and an excellent price. Products with Dimension are best if crabgrass is your problem and should be used in the summer. Portrait is the pre emergent for you if spurge and oxalis are your main weeds! It also helps control wild carrot. Halts is a another good all-around seed control.

All the above mentioned products are granular, I think these are easier and quicker to use. Remember to add Surflan (liquid pre-emergent) to your Round Up or Rumunda with a surfactant. Spot spray any weeds that might have the audacity to show themselves after your seed controlling efforts. I use this “weed killer punch” in my flower beds and open areas. Use a little extra seed control with a good weed killer and a spreader sticker as back up — works every time.

If you can make this resolution and stick to it, your control of weeds will get progressively better. With each application of pre-emergent the weeds will be fewer. The better you stay on schedule the more time, money and labor you will save.

The only down side to all this is that you will not get as many flowers reseeding in your yard. After all, pre emergents do stop all seed germination, not just weeds. I personally like to take some of that time I save with less weeding and plant flowers — much more fun!

Happy gardening in 2008!
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