Gardening: The Northwest Voice

Gardening 101: Food for thought

This year at Robby’s Nursery we’ve seen quite an increase in fruit tree and vegetable sales. I guess with a slow economy and people staying home more they want to plant something they can use. Besides, it’s fun and rewarding to go out and pick a tomato or squash for a meal. Homegrown fruits and veggies taste much better than anything you purchase in a store. After all, you can let them vine or tree ripen to perfection and then race the birds for it!

When planning a garden area, pick a place with lots of sun. With the exception of a very few varieties, like blueberries or rhubarb, most garden fruits and veggies want full sun. You can get creative with your layout, everything doesn’t have to go in straight rows. Mix varieties up and pay attention to leaf texture and color like you would in a regular flower bed. Add “yard art” and maybe a bench to sit and enjoy your creation. Bird houses and scarecrows can really help set the stage for an interesting garden. This area is one that can change with each seasonal harvest and can show true holiday appeal.

Mulch the soil well with lots of organic matter before planting. After your garden starts to grow, use an organic fertilizer with trace minerals to fertilize at least once a month. Water fruit and vegetables well when they’re dry, but don’t forget that they hate too much water. Over watering will usually cause flower and/or fruit drop — many times you’ll see lots of leaf growth but no production. Over watering can also cause splitting of fruits and vegetables. You may even want your garden on a separate watering cycle than the rest of the yard.

Remember to place permanent plants, like fruit trees, artichokes and asparagus, in spots where they won’t be disturbed when switching out annual plants. Pots or raised beds are another option for growing food crops. Use a good potting soil that drains well and they will do quite nicely. Pots of herbs are also fun and easy to clip when needed in the kitchen.

Make sure to pick the correct varieties for the season. Like most plants, you need to pay attention to their requirements. Remember, Bakersfield does have “seasons” and your success or failure will depend on the varieties you choose. Our fall will begin mid to late October, so start preparing the beds as your summer harvest winds down. You can definitely start planning that fall garden now, because fall will be here before you know it.

Some cool-season plants are broccoli, cabbage, lettuce, beans, peas and Brussels sprouts. Fruit trees can be planted anytime from containers, and fall is an excellent time to plant all trees. In January, bare root trees will be available, usually arriving at Robby’s mid-month.

Remember, we do have four long growing seasons in Bakersfield, so let’s take advantage of them and grow some tasty treats! It’s fun and oh so yummy!

Reminder: Oct. 11 & 12 — 14th annual fall festival at Robby’s Nursery, 13129 Hageman Road.

Gardening 101: Watering with wisdom

With talk of water rationing coming from all areas of California, I thought it might be appropriate to go over some tips on water conservation. Even though we have always been quite lucky with our water supply here in Bakersfield, why not do our part? Good watering practices will save water and make our yards healthier at the same time.

For more detailed information on watering, visit: read my gardening article “Watering and our summer heat!”

For now, remember to mulch your flower and shrub beds with a light covering. Forest humus or small bark works well to help hold moisture in soil longer. Don’t build up mulch around the trunk or stems of plants as this can smother plants, causing them to rot off. Leaving an open area free of mulch at the base of each plant allows it to “breathe.”

Next, make sure you are watering in the early-morning hours. This helps with evaporation problems and gives plants ample water through the heat of the day. Give your yard a nice, deep soak when you water, encouraging roots to grow down and deep. Plants with a deep root system can go longer between waterings. Makes sense if you think about it!

Only water an established yard when the ground is dry. Check below the surface of soil to see if watering is needed. Do not water wet soil! If soil is pretty damp, allow it to dry before watering. If you have heavy soil you may be able to skip several days of watering. By paying close attention to your yard and watering only when needed, you can save a lot of water. Maybe if we all try this, we can avoid the strict rules of water rationing.

I can think of only one instance when you may need to water more than once a day. That would be when you have just planted your yard. Newly planted plants, whether just one or a whole new landscape, will require extra watering and careful watching. New shrubs, trees or bedding plants introduced into an existing yard will require hand watering beyond what sprinklers can give them. Likewise, a completely new landscape may need multiple sprinkler waterings through the day until a plant can get established.

Basically, an established yard should be watered once a day in the early morning and only if it’s dry (if you are trying to change from multiple waterings to once-a-day waterings, you may need to increase your watering time for deeper moisture penetration).

This could be one of those problems we all can do something about. Essentially, it is a pretty easy thing to do — with a great reward for us all! Let’s conserve our water and have a beautiful yard at the same time!

Gardening 101: Who says summer is here?

Although I refuse to believe summer is here yet, I have seen signs that it is approaching, so let’s get a jump on it. I was out in my garden today, beginning to prepare for the approaching heat. After living here most of my life, I know we’ll probably have a few steamy days, then some more beautiful weather before the full-fledged Bakersfield heat arrives. But it’s definitely not too soon to get ready.

June 1 is the date to use your summer application of preemergent on your lawn and flower beds. It will help control the hot weather weeds! If you slacked off this spring and skipped seed control, then put it down immediately — don’t wait until June 1! (Four times a year is the recommended application.)

Think about stepping up your watering times. Water longer and deeper when the ground is dry. This time of year, the temperatures may vary greatly, hence, so should your watering schedule. Keep a close eye on your garden and water accordingly. Your plants will thank you.

I can’t stand to look at my early spring bloomers any more. I have started to pull all the annuals that have gone to seed. I’ll be happy to see them again next year, but for now, they’re out of here! Goodbye to paludosum, violas, California poppies, pansies, snaps, cyclamen and primroses!

As I clean out the beds, I am harvesting quite a crop of snails. All this cover has given them the perfect hiding places. After a lot of stomping and with snail bait as my backup I can start planting my summer color. Check out your local nursery and get summer bloomers in before the heat really does hit. At Robby’s we’re getting several shipments each week.

I also am doing some serious weeding and adding some forest humus to all my flower beds. The garden area will get bags of soil-building compost and some additional plantings of veggies. Oh yes, we still have lots of time to plant vegetables. It won’t cool off until late October. Yes, sad but true.

The good news is we have a really long growing season — what fun we can still have! Peppers and tomatoes love the heat. Use a slow-release organic fertilizer for best results. Forget Miracle Gro, it has too much nitrogen for our long growing season and can contribute to blossom-end rot on your tomatoes.

I’ll be putting on more Merit to control bugs for the whole season. I already have applied it to some of my plants like the roses, but now it’s going on cypress, crape myrtles, redbud, liquid amber, weeping willows trees and some cactus — something I haven’t gotten to yet. Once a year sounds too good to be true, I know. So far it has worked well for us! A definite time saver, not to mention dollars saved with only one application.

I guess I know what I will be doing on my days off for the next couple of weeks. I had illusions of getting all this accomplished today, but I forgot to calculate my afternoon nap and going out to breakfast! After all, it is a day “off.” Oh well, it gives me something to look forward to before summer!

Spring tips to simplify your gardening

Well, it looks like spring is in full swing. Everything in the garden is waking up, including bugs and weeds. Let’s talk about making the garden chores a little easier with a few tips that might help:

First of all, check your plant choices. Picking the right size of tree or shrub for your spot can save you hours of time and labor. Small trees and dwarf plants are worth their weight in gold when they fit their space and do not need constant pruning.

Also, don’t waste your time and money buying annuals like pansies and snapdragons now. They should be planted in the fall for spring blooms! Plant summer blooming annuals now, and they will bloom early summer through fall if properly maintained.

Put on tree and shrub insecticides now! Products that contain Merit are once-a-year treatments for bugs! Yes, I said, “once-a-year.” Make a list of which plants you treat, along with the date they’re treated, so you can do it again next year. Check the label for limitations on edibles and follow the application directions. These products work on bores, aphids, spider mites and worms, and you can save yourself time and money with these new products.

The All in One product for roses is a fungicide, insecticide and fertilizer. This product is obviously good on roses, but I like it on my big pot plants as well. Use every six weeks. I do love taking care of three tasks at once.

Don’t forget snail bait. There is nothing worse than planting beautiful flowers, plants and veggies, only to awaken the next morning and find no plants! Those pesky snails can literally strip tender new plants of all leaves and flowers in one night. If you have pets that might pick up the bait, Sluggo is recommended. In areas with no pets, I like Cory's Slug and Snail Death. It gets a whole list of pesky critters — earwigs for one!

Pre-emergents — it’s never too late! People ask me all the time if it is too late to put down seed control? Ideally, you want to put down seed control early each season. This would mean a schedule like March 1, June 1, Sept. 1, and Dec. 1. But if you miss these time frames, these products still stop seed germination whenever they’re applied. So get them down now, then try to get back on the schedule!

Hopefully, these ideas can help make your chores easier and leave you a lot more time for the fun stuff! A little advanced planning can save you time, not to mention a lot of work. This is where that gardening journal can come in quite handy. Write down products and when to use them, then relax and enjoy that yard!

Gardening 101: First smells of spring!

As I walked through the nursery last weekend, I noticed different aromas wafting by. I realized that spring is truly coming. I’m a bit tired of cold days and really tired of cold wind. With some luck we will be saying hello to beautiful spring days from now on! Can I be experiencing the sweet smells of spring right now? I do hope so.

Many plants and flowers combine to create the perfumed air I encounter. I think I can single out some of the most impressive. As I walk through the shade area, I first come to the pink jasmine (Jasminum Polyanthum). This vine likes morning sun and actually has a pink bud opening to a white flower. It has a very strong odor and grabs my attention quickly not to mention the solid blanket of flowers it produces.

Next I pass by the sweet olive. This plant is not an olive at all but an osmanthus fragrans. That name should give you a clue that it is fragrant. This is an evergreen shrub with a very small non-descript flower. Maybe that’s why it’s named as such, so we’ll know it smells good!

Not to be outdone in the smell or name department is the Daphne — Daphne Odora to be exact. Winter Daphne has thick, waxy leaves rimmed in white with beautiful clusters of pink and white flowers. It hates to be over watered and likes some shade. I like to try it in pots. I say try it, because it is a hard plant to grow. If you are successful, what a bouquet it will produce!

Common violets are a good ground cover for shady areas. Be careful, they will multiple, but they are very easy to grow. Otherwise known as “sweet violets” they come in several colors. Pink, white and most commonly purple. Two other shade plants that will soon bloom are evergreen clematis and sarcococca. Neither plant is widely used but both are people stoppers when they’re blooming, generally saying, “What is that smell?” when strolling by.

When walking out into sunny areas of the nursery, I am greeted by some potted bulbs. Most of these were planted in the fall and are now in all their spring glory. Some of the most fragrant fall bulbs are paperwhite narcissus, hyacinths, and freesias. Upcoming will be lilies. Easter lilies are one of many bulbs with flowers springing forth very soon. You can “stagger plant” different varieties of lilies and get a long bloom time.

Who said lilacs won’t grow here? There they are, and in full bud and bloom. The lilacs are even blooming in the smaller one-gallon containers. Lilacs, like many bulbs, require some chill to bloom, and we have just enough here in Bakersfield. Plant in a well-drained, sunny area and fertilize with a bloom enhancer once a month and they do fine. (Prune right after they bloom.)

Walking further into the nursery, I’m hit by too many scents. Is it the bridal wreath spirea, or the yellow Carolina jasmine, or the lavender, or the viburnum? I just can’t tell! As I look around it occurs to me that even more plants are just about ready to start blooming. Roses, citrus and star jasmine are other good smelling bloomers almost ready to go. Thus, the perfume will continue all spring and into summer. What a treat!

I’m always surprised when a customer puts a six-pack of pansies on the counter, they really smell good! I guess since they’re a low grower we don’t smell them as often. If getting down on your knees to smell the flowers isn’t an option, how about a nice hanging pot of beautiful flowers. A good smelly mix for sun would be plants like sweet alyssum, carnations, crocus, stock and the often overlooked pansies. This pot would smell great and look beautiful to boot.

When thinking about the aromas in your garden don’t leave out rosemary, salvia clevelandii, thyme and mint. All these plants have great aroma from their leaves as well as flowers. Plant them where you might brush up against the leaves. Put out some coco mulch on pathways for a chocolate smell and mow your grass.

Oh the sweet smells of spring!

Is it spring yet?

This is a wide open question. Last week the ground hog saw his shadow and retreated back into his burrow. According to him, we’ll have at least six more weeks of winter! On the other hand if you listen to the Easter Bunny, Easter comes early this year, meaning an early spring.

I haven’t checked the Farmers Almanac, but according to our nursery barometer spring is not far off. You see, in the nursery business we’ve always said spring is approaching when we start getting wacky questions and the phone starts ringing off the hook. The conversation usually starts with, “I’ve got a silly question but...”

From all accounts, I think we’re getting close. Every one’s at least thinking about getting outside. People are asking advice about what this year’s plan of attack should be to achieve that beautiful yard. There are certainly a lot of opinions “flying” around and some are better than others!

Q. A large tree blew over this week. Can I dig a bigger hole and bury it deeper so the roots will go down?
A. You should not change the planting level of any tree or shrub. You can reset the plant back in the ground at the same level as it was. As long as most of its roots haven’t snapped off you can try to save the tree. Make sure you “top prune” to lighten up the canopy. Remember the tree can’t support the same top with less roots. Also, wind needs to be able to blow through the tree. Use a root stimulate like Superthrive to help reestablish the the tree.

Q. My rose plant is no good because the flowers open part way, turn black and fall off. I keep it damp all the time so it doesn’t need water.
A. Plants need to be watered well when they are dry and need to dry out in between waterings. Damp, moist conditions can help to cause disease. Sounds like petal blight to me, try a good fungicide several times and it should clear up the problem.
Other callers have been afraid to prune roses. However, roses benefit from pruning — even a poor pruning is usually better than no pruning. If you need some confidence come in and look at the roses and see how they have been pruned. Remember roses bloom on new wood so the more you prune them the more they bloom.

Q. Why do I have crabgrass? I put on seed control every Super Bowl Sunday like I’m supposed to!
A. First of all, how much do you put on? You must know the approximate square footage of your yard in order to follow the recommended coverage. Remember length times width equals square footage. Many of people pay no attention to this! Secondly, at the most pre-emergents only last three months (and that’s stretching it). Crabgrass is a hot weather weed — it comes up all summer! So if you are not applying seed control every three months at the recommended rate then you will have lots of weeds germinating.

Q. Why don’t my plants look lush, I feed them once a year?
A. Once a year is not enough. We water often in Bakersfield, so nutrients are quickly being leached from the soil. I like to feed plants at least once a month. If you want your yard to look good and your plants to bloom and thrive, you have got to feed them on a regular basis. I like a good organic-based fertilizer with extra trace minerals. I also like to use products with a higher middle number because bloom is very important most yards.

This week I had a customer come in wondering “what was the stuff leaking down the trunk of my pines all of a sudden?” Well, most often when a tree is “leaking,” sap coming out of the trees. Insects usually cause this. Boers or twig girdlers are common in this area and cause damage by eating inside the tree. In this case they had probably been doing their damage for a while but it has just become apparent now because the sap is beginning to flow as temperatures warm.

Back to our theme: spring is coming. As sure as the sap has started to flow, insects will be awakening! My last tip for this early spring season is to apply anual treatments for insects. Products containing Meriet are making a big dent in the insect population! Now is the time to apply them to non-edible plants and trees that have problems with insects each year. For instance, treat birch for bores; crape myrtles, hibiscus and trumpet vines for aphids; and liquid ambers and red buds for worms. The list goes on and on. If you have fought a certain pest in the past, chances are you can win the battle this year!

Yeah! The phone is ringing off the hook — hooray! I think spring must be in the air!

Gardening 101: Is it spring yet?

Q. A large tree blew over this week. Can I dig a bigger hole and bury it deeper so the roots will go down?

A. You should not change the planting level of any tree or shrub. You can reset the plant back in the ground at the same level as it was. As long as most of its roots haven’t snapped off you can try to save the tree. Make sure you “top prune” to lighten up the canopy. Remember the tree can’t support the same top with less roots. Also, wind needs to be able to blow through the tree. Use a root stimulate like Superthrive to help reestablish the the tree.

Q. My rose plant is no good because the flowers open part way, turn black and fall off. I keep it damp all the time so it doesn’t need water.

A. Plants need to be watered well when they are dry and need to dry out in between waterings. Damp, moist conditions can help to cause disease. Sounds like petal blight to me, try a good fungicide several times and it should clear up the problem.

Other callers have been afraid to prune roses. However, roses benefit from pruning — even a poor pruning is usually better than no pruning. If you need some confidence come in and look at the roses and see how they have been pruned. Remember roses bloom on new wood so the more you prune them the more they bloom.

Q. Why do I have crabgrass? I put on seed control every Super Bowl Sunday like I’m supposed to!

A. First of all, how much do you put on? You must know the approximate square footage of your yard in order to follow the recommended coverage. Remember length times width equals square footage. Many of people pay no attention to this! Secondly, at the most pre-emergents only last three months (and that’s stretching it). Crabgrass is a hot weather weed — it comes up all summer! So if you are not applying seed control every three months at the recommended rate then you will have lots of weeds germinating.

Q. Why don’t my plants look lush, I feed them once a year?

A. Once a year is not enough. We water often in Bakersfield, so nutrients are quickly being leached from the soil. I like to feed plants at least once a month. If you want your yard to look good and your plants to bloom and thrive, you have got to feed them on a regular basis. I like a good organic-based fertilizer with extra trace minerals. I also like to use products with a higher middle number because bloom is very important most yards.

Yeah! The phone is ringing off the hook — hooray! I think spring must be in the air!

Gardening 101: My 2008 New Year’s resolution for the garden

As I was thinking about resolutions and the coming year it dawned on me: how about one thing I could do better in my yard? How about something that could save me time, work and money? That would be good! So this year I’m going to try using pre-emergents — and doing so properly. What a novel idea!

First of all, pre-emergent is seed control. It will stop most seeds from germinating. In other words, by applying them correctly you can nearly eliminate weeds in your yard. Remember though, procrastination is your worst enemy when using pre-emergents. If you wait until you see weeds, you’re waiting too long. Apply pre-emergents on a set schedule! Here are some of the ins and outs of successfully using seed controls.

You can use pre emergents throughout your yard. Use them on the lawn, in the flower beds and even on unplanted areas — anyplace where you don’t want to see weeds! By using seed control you can save money — money that you had been spending on weed killers. It is much more economical to treat before the weeds come up.

On your lawn you will need to apply seed control every three months. (Yes, that’s four times a year.) Use them early, before you see each season’s weeds. A good schedule might be on March 1, June 1, Sept.1 (if you’re over-seeding wait on the September application until after your winter grass has fully germinated) and Dec. 1.

In flower beds I like to go by a two-month schedule. The ground is worked more often in flower beds and is more exposed so seeds can settle and sprout easily. The same goes for unplanted areas. Even if they are covered with gravel or mulch, moisture is prevalent and weeds will pop up from seed. These areas just seem to be more vulnerable to seed germination.

Mark your calendar as these schedules can get confusing. Remember though, it’s a lot quicker to go out with a “whirlybird” and spread some granules than it is to pull and chop weeds once they’re up. You will save time and work.

Now that you’re considering using a pre-emergent, which one is best? Well, mix them up, don’t always use the same product. Here are some tips on what to use when:

• In open areas, gravel for instance, I love Casaron. It is a product that has been used for years under vinyl pools. It is especially effective on nut grass when used in stronger concentrations. It can also be used in flower beds, but the recommended rate will be less.

• In flower beds, Amaze is another good pre-emergent and not as pricey as Casaron.

• For lawns, Prohibate is a good one that also has a fertilizer and an excellent price. Products with Dimension are best if crabgrass is your problem and should be used in the summer. Portrait is the pre emergent for you if spurge and oxalis are your main weeds! It also helps control wild carrot. Halts is a another good all-around seed control.

All the above mentioned products are granular, I think these are easier and quicker to use. Remember to add Surflan (liquid pre-emergent) to your Round Up or Rumunda with a surfactant. Spot spray any weeds that might have the audacity to show themselves after your seed controlling efforts. I use this “weed killer punch” in my flower beds and open areas. Use a little extra seed control with a good weed killer and a spreader sticker as back up — works every time.

If you can make this resolution and stick to it, your control of weeds will get progressively better. With each application of pre-emergent the weeds will be fewer. The better you stay on schedule the more time, money and labor you will save.

The only down side to all this is that you will not get as many flowers reseeding in your yard. After all, pre emergents do stop all seed germination, not just weeds. I personally like to take some of that time I save with less weeding and plant flowers — much more fun!

Happy gardening in 2008!

Gardening 101: Getting ready for Christmas at the nursery

After owning a nursery for 45 years in Bakersfield we have become quit familiar with what people need this time of year. Whether it be a last minute gift for a special person or a way to deal with a Kern County winter here are some ideas.

My first tip is practical, don’t forget the pre-emergent (seed control) on the lawn and flower beds. Although you won’t see too much weed growth right now, just wait until we have a little rain and some sunny days. Cool weather weeds are just waiting to pop up. By applying now, it will also help with the early spring crop.

After last winter’s cold many of us are being very cautious. I think it’s probably a good idea. First of all, I would spray all your frost tender plants with an anti-transpirant. Cloud Cover has been the standard for the last few years. It works very well and should be applied every four to six weeks throughout the cold weather. A new product called Wilt Stop by Bonide is now on the market and I’m trying it this year because it is a once a year treatment. Both of these products will help those frost tender plants deal with the cold and give some protection against our normal frosty nights.

If this year gets as cold as last year however, more protection will be needed. The next line of defense is covering your plants. The best product we’ve found is called Frost Cloth, a woven fabric made for plant protection that will let light in but keep frost off. Check with your local nursery for the best way to cover. Moving potted plants under cover can also help. Being up against the house or under a patio can add some extra protection. Lighting a plant or tree that doesn’t like the cold can help save it while adding a festive look to your yard. Remember to leave those lights on all night as our coldest temperatures can come around dawn.

Pay attention to your sprinklers this time of year! Water well when you water (three minutes is not watering well!). And only water when the ground is dry. It sounds like a simple concept, but each year we are amazed at the number of people that can’t quite get it. Check the soil 4 to 6 inches below the surface and water when the ground is dry. There is no reason to water wet soil. I feel like a broken record, but evidently this point still needs to be made! The other point is you are in charge of the timer and they all have a manual off switch!

Many times people with new houses choose live Christmas trees and then plant them in the yard after the holidays. You still have time for this tradition because you only want to leave a living tree in the house for about 10 days. Hose the tree off and water it well before taking it inside (Cloud Cover works well here too). Don’t place the tree in the direct blast of the furnace and give it the lightest spot in the room. Make sure to check the tree’s soil for moisture while it’s in the house. If the tree begins to dry out you can place a tray of ice cubes on the soil for a slow watering. Make sure you put a saucer or plastic under the tree to protect the floor from the moisture.

When taking the tree outside to its new home be sure to again water it very well. Check with a nursery as to the best place to plant your new tree. Be sure to consider the ultimate size of your tree and the most favorable conditions for the variety of tree you have purchased. Mulch the soil well when you plant as most conifers prefer a rich organic soil and use SUPERthrive on them each time you water to help roots establish more quickly.

If you are looking for the perfect Christmas gift, a nursery is the place to go.

How about a nice citrus tree for a “California style” Christmas gift? Citrus trees love our climate and look very festive this time of year! They do very well in pots or in the ground so they're easy to work into most landscapes. Citrus trees come in dwarf and standard sizes so they are very accommodating to many spaces. Many times we will plant up a decorative pot with a kumquat or orange tree with some nice flowers around the base for a very beautiful gift.

Wind chimes, over the years, have proven to be a great gift idea. It seems people often admire these items but don't often splurge and buy one for themselves. Hence, a great gift.

Gift certificates for an avid gardener are also a cherished gift, like enthusiasts of any kind it is often hard to know what they want or need. We have noticed gift certificates are quite appreciated and are usually spent with a great deal of care. We see people use them throughout the year on odds and ends they may need or we see them contemplate over that special item they have always wanted, but haven't yet purchased. Either way, what fun!

One of the most popular Christmas gifts to take along to a holiday gathering is a plant. Traditionally the poinsettia is the Christmas flower of choice. They are quite beautiful and are always appreciated, but they don't often last too long after the holidays. One of our favorite flowers of the current season is the Christmas Cactus, it comes in several colors and seems be be a little easier to grow from year to year. If you start feeding your Christmas cactus around Halloween with a fertilizer that has a high bloom number it will bloom again next Christmas.

No matter what gift plant you receive for the holidays it has probably been grown in a green house situation. This means it has been nice and warm so don't water it with cold tap water. Also a good tip is to feed it with a liquid plant food each time you water. In most cases I would keep any of these gift plants in a well lit window during the daytime and move them to a little warmer spot at night. Being too close to a window can be quite chilly and these plants will not be acclimated to that.

Other great gift ideas that you can pick up at your local nurseries are statuary, bird baths, fountains, trellises, arbors, gloves, nice pruners, hand tools, kneeling bench, trees and shrubs, pots, yard art, ornaments, nativities, jewelry, bonsai or even flats of flowers and the labor to plant them.

Hope these tips, both practical and gift ideas, can make your holidays go a little smother. Of one thing we can be sure, the holiday pace at the nursery will be more comfortable and quite a treat during the traditional rush.

Gardening 101: Plant annual flowers now!

Every spring customers come in and are ready to plant their annual flowers. Well you can wait until spring, but that is definitely not the best time. The best time to plant your spring flowers is right now. By planting now you will end up with those nice big beautiful mounds of color that you admire in your neighbors yard. Here are some tips on having beautiful color now through spring.

Choose new colors schemes - Probably the most popular flowers to plant right now are pansies. They come in quite an array of colors, and you can pick and choose different color schemes. Why not try a different combination than usual? The main kinds of pansies are clear colors or “faced” pansies. Varieties like delta and majestic giants have faces or blotches on the petals. Crown or crystal bowls are the ones with no faces. I tend to like to choose all my pansies from the same group. You can mix up colors within the same style or group of pansy. For instance, you could choose a yellow, blue and white color scheme using all majestic giant pansies. This will add continuity to your overall color design.

Prepare flower beds - Mulch your flower beds well before planting. Kellogg’s Amend works very well because pansies hate to have wet feet! Yes, you can over water them easily. Amend is made from rice hulls and helps to maintain good drainage, and it also lasts longer in the soil than most mulches. Both a pre-plant fertilizer and some SUPERthrive will help to get your plants off to a great start.

Water and worm issues - If you have had trouble with pansies breaking off at ground level in the past, it is usually one of two things: root rot or cut worms. In the case of too much water (root rot) you may need to spray the soil with a fungicide. I like Agrifos or Alliete to drench the soil before planting, then following with once-a-month treatments. Make sure to water plants when the soil is dry, but don’t keep your pansies too wet! If you see small fat worms that curl up on the soil, you can spray with Worm Ender or Liquid Sevin. Spray once a week for three weeks to break the cycle of the insects. Repeat this process if you see more worms.

Promote blooms - A garden of pansies can be expected to flower during fall, winter and spring. The more you deadhead your pansies, the more they bloom. Annual flowers will always bloom longer if you remove spent flowers and don’t let them produce seeds. All flowers will let up on blooming if we have a lot of fog, but be patient because spring blossoms will be worth the wait!

Another option - Snapdragons are another popular plant to get in now. Once established, they don’t like to be over watered either. Snapdragons come in three basic heights: small (about 8 inches); medium (12 to 14 inches); and tall (over 24 inches). Plant snapdragons like pansies. Watch for rust (treat with a fungicide) and worms on leaves and flowers. My favorites are the medium varieties called sprites. You can purchase them in mixed packs or as one color. They are quite beautiful behind pansies or in the center of your pots.

A fragrant choice - Stocks are probably the most fragrant of the cool season annuals. Place groupings of stock near gathering spots in the garden and the scents will charm your visitors. Stocks come with green or grey foliage and can be used as cut flowers as well. I am particularly fond of white stocks since they are a bright and stand out nicely among other bright flowers, like daffodils.

An annual extravaganza - More wonderful annuals for fall planting include alyssum, violas, calendulas, Iceland poppies, dianthus and paludosium. You can count on them growing right through the winter and making you proud this coming spring. Many will reseed and come back for you next year, but even if they don’t they are of great value in the garden for blooming fall through spring. That’s quite a show!

Feed the flowers - Fertilize your flowers once a month with a good flower food. The best type of food would be an organic-based fertilizer with a higher middle number on the fertilizer analysis. If you tend to over water or have heavy soil (too much clay) you will benefit from using soil penetrants. For instance, Soil Buster is a granular product that will help your soil drain better. Just remember to get on that monthly schedule. If you want these flowers to perform in your garden, you must give them what they need. Then just sit back and watch all your hard work pay off! Your neighbors can now oooh and aaah over your yard this spring!

Purple Leaf Plum has local roots

As you drive around Bakersfield you can not help but see many dark purple trees in the yards of homeowners and in commercial landscapes. Not only can you see these trees locally, but I have observed them with my wife at Hearst Castle and many other cities in and out of California.

As a child growing up in Bakersfield I remember the Purple Leaf Plum in the front yard of our home. The true name of this beautiful tree is Prunus cersaifera Krauter's Vesuvias' which was introduced in 1957 by my Grandfather Carl Krauter, a second generation nurseryman who owned and operated Krauter's Nursery at Lake and Kentucky street for many years. My mother Shirley Ashby and my Uncle Howard Krauter both worked at their father's nursery and have related to me events leading up to the discovery of the Krauter Vesuvias'.

The tree was discovered after it spouted from the ground and was then propagated and sold. My grandfather kept no records of this event so the exact date of discovery is not known.

If you wish to purchase a Purple Leaf Plum, 'Krauter Vesuvias' my advice to you is to make sure it is locally grown and is a 'Krauter Vesuvias'. There are many other purple leaf plums on the market but the Krauter Vesuvias' is better looking and a better performer than the other varieties. Oh and maybe instead of putting a green leaf on the city's welcome sign we could put a purple one.

Gardening 101: Fall is For Planting

As we watch the calendar we know fall is approaching. Even though current temperatures aren’t reflecting the seasonal change just yet, we can look forward to this most delightful time of year. This will be your best opportunity for planting, bar none. As a general rule for Bakersfield and the Central Valley, we experience an Indian Summer phenomenon that boasts quite wonderful temperatures.

The next two to three months will let you plant while the ground is warm enough to get roots established quickly. Plants don’t experience shock from extreme temperatures at other times of the year. Getting your trees and shrubs in the ground now will help kick-start root development. Give them an extra boast by planting with a good organic mulch and using a root stimulant like Superthrive. Always be careful to plant at the same depth that the plant was in the container. At Robby’s we have planting charts to help you plant properly, and we try to give one out with every purchase.

By planting in the fall you will get the benefit of the heavy burst of spring growth. “Why?” you ask. Because by planting now, roots will have time to get established in the soil. Once a plant has a nice root system developed, the energy of the plant can focus on growth and blooms. If you wait for spring to plant, the plant’s energy will mostly focus on the reestablishment of roots instead of growth. For instance, the best time to plant cool-season bedding, like pansy plants, is now. By planting in the fall, roots establish quickly and plants thrive through winter and bingo — beautiful, big, full-bloom spring pansies! For this reason I say spring is the second best time to plant!

Fall-planted trees, shrubs and flowers are also more capable of dealing with summer temperatures. Plants with established, deep roots can tolerate more heat and actually go longer between waterings. By planting in the fall, your plants will have a much better chance to develop that strong root system. Be sure to start feeding your plants about a month after they are planted. Feed them monthly and water deeply when the ground is dry.

Remember to feed evergreens all year. The only plants that don’t get fed in the winter are those that are frost tender or become dormant. Actually you could still feed these plants if you use a fertilizer with very low or no nitrogen. Early spring bloomers would also benefit with the low nitrogen feeding schedule.

If you’re looking for plants that give good fall color you can choose them now. In the next month or so, fall colors will become apparent. You can actually see which colors appeal to you and buy what you love. Some trees, like liquid ambers, will have several different varieties with different color combinations. Many times the descriptions in a book or on the Internet are not satisfactory. It is always better if one can see plants in person. Visit the nursery often to catch the fall color show — all the trees and shrubs will not color up at once.

The weather will also play a big part in color changes. This year we should have pretty good fall color because many times good fall color follows a cold winter. We sure had that last year! So last year’s cold and this year’s cold will both be coloring factors. After 45 years in the nursery business we’ve seen it all. It can get real cold before Thanksgiving or we may not see any sign of cold until Christmas. You know we will get cold — the only question is when and just how cold?

Like I said earlier, spring flowers should go in now! Don’t wait until spring for all of the above reasons. Most early spring bloomers take the winter fine! Here’s a partial list for fall planting: pansies, snapdragons, stocks, calendulas, Iceland poppies, palodosium, alyssum, dianthus, sweet peas, wildflowers, primroses and cyclamen. All of these will last much longer into spring with a well-developed root, not to mention offer many more blooms.

So fall is the best time to plant! It’s also a wonderful, festive time of year. For both of these reasons we at Robby’s Nursery have chosen to celebrate fall. Don’t miss our Fall Festival, Oct. 13 and 14. Don’t miss a great sale throughout the nursery and lots of special holiday items. Hope to see you soon!

Will nut grass or ants take over the world?

As I am out surveying my yard after spraying for weeds and then a few days later for ants, I have concluded that one of these will probably take over the world! Among my many yard tasks this month control of these is quite frustrating. So the battle goes on. Here are some ideas for this month’s war of the roses, petunias, geraniums or whatever you’re growing.

First of all ants. They’re out in force, that’s for sure. I have had pretty good luck with Terro bait stations in the house. Although outside I’m not having as much luck. I spray with different insecticides and although I know I’m killing some (actual dead bodies), the next morning it looks like I never sprayed. It seems they may move over a little, but the trails are still there. I’ll just keep trying. Maybe I’m living on one giant ant hill.

Like the ants, I am also haunted by nut grass. Yes, I’ve tried Manage without much success. Seems like Monterey Weed-Hoe did about the same and is cheaper to use. Maybe Sedge Hammer Turf Herbicide will be better. So far my best luck with flower beds and on open ground has been Roundup (or Remuda) with a surfactant sprayed early in the morning. Spray every time you see it start back up. Using Casaron for a surfactant has been wonderful in areas where I’m not planting or it’s also recommended for under vinyl pools. I put it on really strongly, and no more nut grass! It works pretty well in flower beds as well, but strictly by directions.

I know all the rules –– like don’t pull nut grass because you’ll just spread it. Well, I’m sorry, there comes a time when you simply can’t stand it. Its got to go! Pull it! This month I will clean out my beds and pull the weeds. Then after I start removing my summer flowers (in a couple of months) I’ll spray the nut grass just as it’s emerging once again. In the fall it should be at its weakest — if it’s ever weak! Not sure I’m convinced.

Suckers on roses and citrus trees are usually growing strongly by now. In both cases the wild-looking sprigs come up rapidly. This month be sure to prune out those suckers. Cut each sucker back to where it originates. Sucker foliage looks different than the “good” leaves on the rest of the plant. The roses usually will sucker from the bottom and off the root and below the graft. Citrus can sucker from anywhere in the tree. Citrus suckers will have large leaves and big thorns.

Also, if you prune off all old flowers on your roses and other summer bloomers there is a good chance they will re-bloom. After all, in Bakersfield we still have a good two months of warm weather. By deadheading and fertilizing, you will be amazed by how much more boom time you can get.

Don’t be afraid to fertilize once a month through the growing season. In the heat I like to use a good organic food with trace minerals. Be sure to apply according to the directions and always water dry fertilizer right after application. Never put on a dry fertilizer and wait for the sprinklers to water it the next morning. You can severely burn your yard if you do.

Have you had trouble with petunias and geraniums not blooming this year? Well, you’ve got bud worms! Butterflies and moths are out in force and laying a multitude of worms. To rid yourself of worms you must spray often. Worm-Ender and liquid Sevin are both good at getting rid of worms. Both are good on veggies as well.

At our nursery (Robby’s Nursery & Landscape Service), we have added a chore to our busy schedule. This month we have started spraying with a liquid fertilizer called Grow Vite. Now, we often use this particular fertilizer when something is looking a little yellow. But this month we have used it to help wash off the ash from the fires around Bakersfield. I think it is important to clean off dusty summer foliage anyway, but this year there is quite a thick coating. Grow Vite has a penetrant in it and should help clean up the foliage at the same time it feeds the plants. I do love doing two chores at once!

All’s fair in love and war, or at least that’s what I’ve always heard. And sometimes this gardening can feel like a war. But I still love it. It’s sure better than cleaning house! I know the nut grass and the ants will be here long after I’m gone, but while I’m on this little piece of ground the battle goes on and on and on! Hopefully I can at least stay ahead of the game.

Gardening 101: Watering and our summer heat!

Probably the question most frequently asked during this time of year is, “How often should I water?”

Seems like a pretty easy question! The question is simple enough, but there are a few factors that must be considered before an answer can be given. Someone that tells you “once a day” or “every other day” clearly is not taking this question seriously and prefers the easy way out. Here are some things to consider:

First, how long has the yard been in? A newly planted yard must have multiple waterings a day. For instance, to establish a lawn you must keep it damp so short waterings throughout the day are required. Newly planted bedding plants need water two or three times a day this time of year. They will also require a “water well” around them so the small root area is saturated.

When planting new trees or shrubs in the heat you will again need to make a water well. Make sure the well is no bigger than the original container of the plant. The watering area should enable you to fill several inches of water directly over the root ball. Be sure to leave the root area intact when planting— check out my previous article, “Don’t break the root ball” for more explanation. Be sure to water these plants in the early morning by hand — don’t depend on the sprinklers until the roots are out into the soil. You have to make sure the root area is saturated. Only the most drought tolerant plants can be skipped and not watered everyday when they are first planted. This hands-on approach of watering should be used for the first month or two that the yard is getting established.

If your yard has been in for a while the next question is, “What’s your soil like?”
Basically your yard should be watered when the soil is dry. Sandy soil will probably need water every day in the summer. On the other hand, clay soil can go several days before it drys out. My answer here is to check the soil 4 to 6 inches below the surface and see if it’s still wet. There’s no reason to water wet soil! Also, check different places in your yard for moisture — obviously shady areas will dry out more slowly than full sun areas. You could have spots that drain better than others — remember we have hardpan areas — or you could have different types of soil all within one yard.

Many times people tell me that they have to water more than once a day. Usually upon further questioning, they are watering two or three times a day for a short period of time (such as five minutes ). My advice in this case is increase your watering time, but only water once a day. I say this with some reservation because this is not the best time of year to change a watering schedule. It can be done with some careful observation and extra watering, if needed, to see plants through the time of transition.

With multiple waterings throughout the day, plants can begin to smother. Root rot and disease become more prevalent and insects thrive. Plants need to dry out between waterings. You need the wet-to-dry cycle to occur regularly for healthy soil and plant development. If you water well when you water, you encourage the plants to root deeply and thus they are stronger and can go longer between waterings. It makes sense when you think about it!

The best time to water is in the early morning because the plants have sufficient moisture to see them through the heat of the day and are at the driest point during the night (when there is less heat stress). Evening waterings can increase disease and insects. If you water at night the plant is at its driest point in the heat of the day — not very good.

Volume of water would be our last consideration. If you have low volume heads or stream rotors you will have to water much longer than you will with spray heads. It could take 45 minutes per station in sandy soil with stream rotors. Probably the best way to check is with a shovel. Dig down and see if you’re getting good, deep moisture penetration into the soil. Remember to water well when you water and then let the ground dry out.

If you have a slope or mounds in your yard, a good trick is to set the clock to water early morning. Water until you see run off, then move on to the next station. After the clock runs the whole cycle set it to come on again immediately. This way you’ve doubled the time for a deeper watering but still catching it in the early morning.

Hopefully these tips on watering can help you get through the next few months more easily. You’ve probably heard it many times, but I think it bears repeating: people in Bakersfield like to over water. I know it’s hot, but remember: don’t water wet soil — and by all means check below the surface. Of course it looks dry, it’s 105 degrees. See what the soil is doing and if it truly needs water. Your plants will thank you! And believe me, they will also tell you if they need more water, just take a look at them. I know it’s therapeutic to water but lets make sure the plants are dry first.

Gardening 101: Summer bloomers bring back memories!

As I walk through the nursery jotting down summer blooming plants I’m flooded with memories. Growing up in the nursery brings all kinds of pictures to mind. You see, my mom and dad bought their first nursery in June some 45 years ago. I was in fifth grade.

My brother, sister and I spent many a summer in the back of the nursery building “forts” and playing on the canning pile. As we spent every summer there we of course became familiar with all the flowers in our back yard.

People ask every day what blooms in Bakersfield in the summer. My answer: a lot!
Starting out with annuals: Celsia, Salvia, Vinca, Marigolds, Cosmos, Petunias (spray for bud worms), Zinnas (love those little star zinnias), Black Eyed Susan Vines, Impatients, Begonias, Gartenmeister Fushia, Allysum, Portulaca and Pentas. These plants will bloom off and on all summer up until the weather gets cold. When you first plant them you must water often. Most of these come in small packs with small root balls, hence you must water two to three times a day until they get established. Once established with a good root system, only water them when the ground is dry. Also feed them once a month for healthy plants and lots of flowers.

Shrubs and perennials that give color in the summer are many: plumbago, day lilies, agapanthus, red fountain grass, kangaroo paw, lantana (many new varieties), morea iris, coreopsis, solanum, bidens, salvia (many different varieties), Mexican primrose, cone flower, rudbeckia, lions tail, catmint, dahlias, lavender, lambs ear, yarrow, verbena, Bacopa, Cuphea, gazanias, Hypericum, Myoporum, stipa grass, oleander, bougainvillea, hibiscus, mallow, Cape honeysuckle, Rose of Sharon, Alstroemeria, pride of madeira, cactus, Rhodohypoxis, Zauschneria (grey foliage with orange flower), butterfly bush, geraniums, cistis, Cestrum, astilbe, coral bells, hydrangea, calla lily, Loropetulum, Scaevola, arctotis, Mexican marigold, gardenia, abelia, dwarf pomegranate, statice, silver lace vine, vinca minor, gerbera daisy, euryops daisy, Shasta daisy — the list could go on.

Some trees and vines that are showing off for the summer are: crape myrtle, Vitex, jacaranda (can be frost sensitive), Madame Galen Trumpet Vine (what a show of orange — wow!), bougainvillea, star jasmine, mandevilla, Pandora jasmine, Solanum vine, oleander tree, Rose of Sharon (hardy hibiscus), Southern magnolia, silver lace vine, honeysuckle and trumpet honeysuckle.

All this color comes from the flowers, and we haven’t even discussed foliage color — that will have to be another article. Again the same principles when planting in the heat are applicable: pay special attention until roots are established. Be sure to hand water in the early morning, and each and every newly planted plant must be checked! Do not depend solely on the sprinklers to get your plants through the transition period from container to the ground. Always mulch around the plant, when you dig the hole twice as big as the root ball use a 50-50 mix of mulch and native soil. Don’t plant any deeper than it was in the container, and make a water well at soil level so the water can trickle down to the root ball. Remember that in Bakersfield heat I do not recommend breaking the root ball! Don’t disturb the plant any more than you have to. The less stress experienced, the less shock the plant will incur.

Hopefully these plant lists can spark your interest and get you to try something new. All of these plants can add to the appeal of your yard in the summer while we’re out using our yards. Like for me, planting all this color can help bring good memories of Bakersfield summers. I am truly blessed to have been able to hang out in a beautiful environment all these years. What memories!